UPDATE: Sep. 19, 2023

In a video posted by the Hawaiʻi Department of Land and Natural Resources, greenery blooms in a sea of dead leaves. It is none other than the Lahaina Banyan Tree, which has acted as a ray of hope for Lahaina locals and residents who lost everything in the deadly Maui wildfires last month. The tree—and the Lahaina community—however, stands strong. While a number of volunteers immediately began to help rehabilitate the tree by airing out its soil, treating it with a nutrient-rich compost and making sure it was getting watered daily, there was still no way to know for sure if the historic banyan tree was going to make it.

However, life finds a way. After just over a month since the blazing fires, new clusters of green leaves have begun sprouting on its massive branches. Better yet—as seen in the video—numerous bunches of greenery and plant life have also started to grow around the tree and on its soil. These are all positive indicators for the tree’s health, which was also aided by a blessing from Kumu Kapono Kamaunu. The volunteer group—which is made of up Maui arborists, landscapers and volunteers—who helped manage the tree’s recovery has also begun working on saving the historic ʻulu (breadfruit) trees in the area as well any other surviving historic trees.

Photo: Courtesy of DLNR

In times like this, where so much tragedy has befallen a community Hawaiʻi loves, the Lahaina Banyan Tree gives hope. It’s a reminder that, even in a place that was essentially burned to the ground, life can find a way. And with enough help, perseverance and time, things can get better—and new life can begin to grow again.

UPDATE: Sep. 6, 2023

While the Lahaina banyan tree has yet to rebound back to its pre-fire splendor, signs of life are very much there, according to landscape contractor Chris Imonti.

“We did root samples last week and we had very good news as far as new life in the roots. A lot of new roots shooting off. We tested the moisture and arborist Steve Nims, who is the unofficial leader of the Banyan Tree hui has analyzed all the treatments and he is out today putting sensors on the tree to measure growth rates. With the compost tea we are seeing good results and as long as we give it enough love, I think it’s going to be fine,” Imonti commented.

A volunteer spreading alfalfa around the base of the Lahaina banyan tree.
Photo: Courtesy of DLNR

Additional measures have been put into place by the hui (group) who are caring for Lahaina banyan tree and working towards its restoration. The ground and soil around the tree is being regularly aerated, and it is often being treated with a “tree-loving soup,” a mix of nutrients Imonti himself formulated for the recovering banyan. Additionally, volunteers are spreading chopped up alfalfa, a legume—a soil enhancing green manure—around the base of the tree to aid in its recovery.

For many, the Lahaina banyan tree serves as a ray of hope for Lahaina residents, who lost everything in the Maui wildfires. Not only that, the tree serves as a special place for many, whether they were using it to serve as the perfect backdrop for a wedding proposal or just as a shady spot to rest from the sun. “I’ve been here for years and years so, like many others, I have a personal attachment to the tree,” says Imonti. “To me, it’s a symbol of hope. We’re taking it to heart to try to bring back the tree, to give some hope to Lāhainā. We don’t know what’s down the line, but I think it’s going to be a new beginning for everybody.”

ORIGINAL STORY: Aug. 17, 2023

Amidst the unimaginable tragedy that has been the Maui wildfires, a ray of hope still stands. The historic Lahaina banyan tree is still alive—according to expert arborist Steve Nimz. According to Nimz, who inspected the tree over the weekend and found live tissue in the tree’s cambium, the layer just below the bark, the tree shows signs that it could recover and that there isn’t reason to give up hope on it.

The Lahaina banyan tree is one of the oldest in Hawaiʻi. It was planted in Lahaina on April 24, 1873, by William Owen Smith, the sheriff of the town at the time. Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first Protestant mission in Lahaina, the exotic Indian banyan stood only 8 feet tall. The tree quickly began to expand its root system with new roots and trunks sprouting up—and the community adored the tree.

Experts assessing the Lahaina banyan tree after wildfires scorched the town.
Photo: Courtesy of the Hawaiʻi Department of Land and Natural Resources

Today, the tree stands over 60 feet high. It has 46 major trunks, and it provided ample shaded space for locals and visitors to escape the Lahaina sun. And it’s likely due to its exceptional growth and large number of trunks and aerial roots it has grown over the years that it survived the disastrous fires that engulfed the town.

But the road to recovery is long. For Lahaina, and Maui, it will take years before the island is able to feel a sense of normalcy after such a devastating event. And for the Lahaina banyan tree, arborists like Nimz are doing everything they can. A team of arborists have formulated a daily watering program for the tree, and local contractor Goodfellow Bros. will utilize its water trucks to keep the Lahaina banyan sufficiently watered.

A protective area has been established around the tree.
Photo: Courtesy of the Hawaiʻi Department of Land and Natural Resources

Other efforts will also be put into play. Despite the soil underneath the top layer not being burned, an additional 2-inch layer of compost will be laid around the tree to provide additional nutrients to the banyan. The preexisting soil will also be aerated to allow optimal drainage when the tree is watered. A protected zone around the tree has also been designated with signs and fencing, and kumu Kapono Kamaunu blessed the tree over the weekend to help aid its recovery.

Ultimately, time will tell if the Lahaina banyan tree ever makes a full recovery. While a team is dedicated to its recovery, the tree has yet to “wake up” and show signs of recovery. And much like Lahaina itself, with this kind of trauma, only time and support can make a difference. But there’s hope that people will sit under this grand banyan again.

When visitors and residents think of Hawai’i, they likely picture lush forests, dramatic landscapes and sandy coastlines, but the untold story of cattle ranchers on the islands is one that cannot be forgotten. For Lani Cran Petrie, a cattle rancher on Hawaiʻi Island, this land is her livelihood. Petrie began to help with the management and care of Kapāpala Ranch as a teenager back in 1977, when her family took over the property. Situated between two of Hawaiʻi’s largest volcanoes—Mauna Loa and Kīlauea—the area is a unique piece of pastureland that perfectly represents the Big Island’s expansive array of farmland. And now, 46 years later, she and her husband, Bill Petrie, are helping to honor tradition while also building a sustainable, forward-looking business. 

“When my dad worked here in the ’50s, they had 12 men working,” says Petrie. “Today there’s three of us. And we run twice as many cattle.” That’s no small feat on a ranch that spans 34,000 acres. Kapāpala Ranch is in the business of raising calves and exporting them to the Mainland where they grow to their full weight and size. Technology has been vital in keeping the ranch running since it was founded in 1860. Today, that technology includes electric fences, cellular cameras and a small Piper J-3 Cub airplane, which Bill Petrie takes off in every morning to check on things. 

Photo: Courtesy of Kapāpala Ranch.

Over the years, invasive weeds on the property have been a big challenge for the ranch—threatening not only to choke out forage for cattle, but also habitats for the insects and plants who also call the land home. To combat this, Lani Cran Petrie and her crew came up with a sustainable, long-term solution: grazing animals like cattle and goats. “We run about 2,000 goats,” says Petrie, “and they’re broken down into three bands of between 500 to 700 goats.” With so many hungry goats, Kapāpala Ranch doesn’t have to use chemicals or bulldozers to beat back weeds and brush, which in-turn is better for the health of the soil. Cattle grazing offers a similar function on the land, working with the goats to protect native plants, animals and insects.  

The Kapāpala Ranch’s long history of using cattle to protect natural habitats even has benefits for those looking to explore the beautiful landscapes of Hawaiʻi. The ranch has access roads to hiking trails in the area as well as to trailheads that will take visitors through the Kapāpala Forest Reserve—a paradise for hikers, hunters and birdwatchers. The Petries work with the Department of Land and Natural Resources, using fencing to ensure cattle stay in areas that benefit from their grazing while still protecting native vegetation that inhabits the Forest Reserve. Using cattle to protect against harmful plants and insects, the Petries, and those that have come before them, have preserved this lush land for future generations to enjoy.  

Photo: Courtesy of Kapāpala Ranch.

With a ranch roughly the size of Kahoʻolawe, ensuring enough water gets to where it needs to be on the property had been a hurdle. It used to take four hours for ranchers to drive across Kapāpala Ranch in a pickup truck to check on water pumps. That chore had been made easier by Bill Petrie’s post-coffee flights: He would just fly out to the pumps and check them. But pumping water across miles and miles of ranchland has its own drawbacks: Faulty pumps and pipes had to be replaced over and over again. So, the Petries and company came up with yet another ingenious solution. This one involved gravity, not goats or cattle.  

“For the last seven years, we have not pumped water. We’ve turned our pumps off, and before that, for the last hundred years, this place has pumped water,” says Petrie. How can they get by without pumping water? By building a reservoir “at the highest elevation we could,” using high-density polyethylene sheets. From there, gravity gets the water where it needs to be. “As technology has changed, our business has changed with it,” says Petrie. And it works, as the gravity-powered reservoir saves Kapāpala Ranch roughly 3,000 gallons of diesel fuel per year. Innovations like these, in Hawai’i and on the mainland, allow the beef industry to continually reduce land, water and natural resources use.  

Photo: Courtesy of Kapāpala Ranch.

Caring for the rich Hawaiian ecosystem and for the animals is what drives Bill and Lani to continue to find new, creative ways of operating. The land has been passed down for generations and making sure it is sustainable for the future is a responsibility the Petries take very seriously. That’s because to them, this is more than just business. For Lani, the cattle and the land are her ʻohana.  

Maybe you’ve already booked your trip to Hawaiʻi Island—or maybe you’re planning a last-minute vacation to the Big Island.

Either way, you’ll definitely want to visit Kīlauea, which began erupting again on June 7, 2023—and putting on quite a show, too.

The new eruption at Kīlauea on June 7, 2023.
Photo: Courtesy of the National Park Service/Janice Wei

The new eruption began just before sunrise on June 7, filling Halemaʻumaʻu Crater with pools of lava. Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, where the eruption is confined right now, is bracing itself for the thousands of visitors the new eruption will lure this summer.

So we’ve compiled some tips—some from the National Park Service, some from repeat visitors to the park—to help you see the eruption safely.

1. Check current conditions.

The U.S. Geological Survey has a live cam of Halemaʻumaʻu Crater (below) so you can see what’s going on with the eruption in real time. (It’s also a great way to view the eruption if you can’t visit the Big Island.) Check the park’s website, too, for up-to-date information on the eruption and related hazards.

2. You can visit anytime, but evening is best.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is open 24 hours a day, and nighttime is the best time (in our opinion) to view the eruption. For one, you get to see the awesome glow of the lava from the crater. And secondly, fewer people visit after 9 p.m. and before 5 a.m., according to the park.

3. Be prepared.

Whenever you’re planning to go, you’ll want to plan ahead and bring what you need. Wear closed-toed or hiking shoes for treks to viewing areas. If you’re going at night, you’ll need a flashlight or headlamp—your smartphone light won’t cut it—and warm clothes. And check the weather. Rain and clouds are not uncommon at Kīlauea, and the 4,000-foot summit can get chilly. It’s always a good idea to bring rain gear—jackets or ponchos, umbrella—just in case.

4. Check about vog.

If you’re worried about vog—volcanic smog—you might want to check this site before you visit. Lack of trade winds at the summit mean ashfall and elevated concentrations of sulfur dioxide can be present. This volcanic gas can be hazardous, especially to people with heart or respiratory problems, infants, young children and pregnant women.

The new eruption at Kīlauea, which started on June 7, 2023.
Photo: Courtesy of the National Park Service/M. Newman

5. Consider these viewing areas in the park.

The national park recommends a few viewpoints along Crater Rim Drive: Uēkahuna, Kupinaʻi Pali (Waldron Ledge) and Keanakākoʻi. Note that there’s limited parking at the Devastation Trail parking lot, used to access Keanakākoʻi, and expect long waits at the more popular overlooks. Volcanic eruptions can be hazardous and change at any time. Stay on marked trails and overlooks, and avoid earth cracks and cliff edges. Do not enter closed areas. Check out the park map and download the new NPS mobile app to help you navigate during your visit.

Visitors watch the summit eruption of Kīlauea volcano from the Keanakākoʻi side of the caldera.
Photo: Courtesy of the National Park Service/Janice Wei

6. Bring your aloha.

Slow down and drive safely. Expect long waits for parking spaces, especially at popular viewing areas. Be courteous to other visitors. Respect cultural practitioners who may be in the park. And be nice to park rangers, who are working long hours to help park cars and keep you safe.

Jim Little has been in the Hawaiʻi plumeria business for 50 years. Growing and cross-pollinating plumeria—known in Hawaiian as melia—since 1973, as Jim Little Nursery & Farms, Little has produced some of the most vibrant, fragrant and unique plumerias in the world. From ruffled flowers to plumeria in stunning shades of red and yellow, these are not your average lei flower but works of art. And now, after five decades of growing his crop, visitors and locals can visit Little Plumeria Farms during weekly farm tours led by his son, Clark Little—you may have heard of him—and Clark’s son, Dane Little. 

Clark, Jim and Dane Little (from left to right).
Photo: Courtesy of Little Plumeria Farm

So how did three generations of Littles end up deciding to share the farm with others? It all started with Dane, who after returning home from college wanted to give something new a shot and began helping his grandfather sell plumeria seeds on eBay. And he learned how to farm and cross-pollinate from his grandfather. Seeing that his son was interested in the business, Clark Little—yes, the famous shorebreak and ocean photographer—also got on board, and before long the three Littles got to work getting the farm ready for tours with the idea of spreading aloha and the beauty of the land with others. 

Preparing the farm, however, was no easy feat and involved some hard labor. The Littles had their hands full on a two-year project that included the removal of invasive trees and species that had taken root on the farm, as well as putting in a driveway and automated irrigation systems. Fortunately, the hard work paid off. They started up their tours on May 1, 2023—Lei Day—and going by the smiles on their faces, tourgoers couldn’t have been more pleased. 

The view of the North Shore from Little Plumeria Farm.
Photo: Courtesy of Little Plumeria Farm/Rich Tully

Public farm tours are an hour long and give guests a chance to stroll around the plumeria farm with Dane or Clark as they talk about some of the rare and one-of-a-kind hybrid plumerias on the property. The scent of plumeria fills the air around the farm and visitors will likely smell the place before they even get there. And once they do, their visual senses are treated to panoramic views of Oʻahu’s North Shore, from Mokulēʻia all the way down to Haleʻiwa. The Littles also teach tourgoers about the various stages of plant growth in their nursery, where they crossbreed plumeria and produce seedlings. They won’t know what the actual flowers from any crossbreeding will look like for two to five years after planting. 

The farm also hosts private tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Not only will you be able to see not-yet-released hybrids from the Littles’ collection, but each person on a private tour receives a signed copy of Jim Little’s book, Growing Plumerias in Hawaii and Around the World—and gets to choose a USDA-approved plumeria cultivar to take home.

The Goldilocks plumeria.
Photo: Courtesy of Little Plumeria Farm/Rich Tully

Whether you decide to go on a public or private tour, the overall beauty and majesty of the farm can’t be ignored. It’s so quiet up in these hills. The fragrant smell of plumeria follows you wherever you go, and tour guides Dane and Clark Little show nothing but aloha to guests. And the flowers: Some are so dynamic and unique, their vibrant shades resembling the colors of the sky lit up by a Hawaiʻi sunset, that they demand your attention. These are, without a doubt, some of the rarest plumerias in the world, and you can only see them here.

“It’s a labor of love,” says Jim Little. “But the smile on people’s faces when they come here, that’s priceless.” 

General tours are $45 for adults, $25 for kids and are held every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Private tours are $250 for adults, $125 for children, and are held every Tuesday and Thursday. Book your tour here. 

ʻĪao Valley State Monument is a verdant 4,000-acre park home to one of Maui’s most recognizable landmarks, the 1,200-foot ʻĪao Needle. The peaceful area is popular among residents and regularly draws travelers. 

The park has been closed since Aug. 1, 2022, due to a slope stabilization project. After this nine-month closure, the Maui park is finally scheduled to reopen on May 1, 2023. 

Along with the reopening date, the DLNR Division of State Parks announced earlier this month that May 1 would also commence the start of a reservation system for out-of-state visitors. This makes ʻĪao Valley State Monument the fourth Hawaiʻi state park requiring travelers to book reservations. So, prior to arriving to Hawaiʻi, travelers should plan and research, whether it’s obtaining a time slot to visit ʻĪao Valley or securing a reservation at a busy restaurant.  

And this reservation system for an outdoor attraction isn’t novel in Hawaiʻi. Out-of-state visitors already need to book a time slot to enter Waiʻānapanapa State Park on Maui, Diamond Head State Monument on Oʻahu and Hāʻena State Park on Kauaʻi. 

In a news release, the Division of State Parks Assistant Administrator Alan Carpenter says he hopes that with the new reservation system at ʻĪao Valley—and other parks slated to have them in the future—travelers to Hawaiʻi will be cognizant that tickets are necessary to enter some of the most trafficked parks here.   

ʻĪao Valley State Monument is scheduled to reopen on May 1, 2023, following a nine-month closure.
Photo: Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority (HTA) / Tor Johnson

“It’s been four years since we began requiring reservations at Hā’ena State Park. The complaints from those who fail to secure one have steadily decreased, and we expect with the addition of ‘Īao reservations people will become more aware of the need to get a reservation for these four popular parks,” Carpenter said. 

According to the Division of State Parks, the ʻĪao Valley reservation process will mirror the systems at Waiʻānapanapa and Lēʻahi, which were implemented following the COVID-19 pandemic. When travel restrictions to Hawaiʻi were lifted, the Islands experienced a tremendous influx of visitors, resulting in overcrowding and an excess of commercial tours at popular outdoor attractions.  

Beginning on April 17, reservations can be made for ʻĪao Valley State Monument and can be scheduled up to two weeks in advance. Reservations for all Hawaiʻi Parks can be made at https://gostateparks.hawaii.gov/. At ʻĪao Valley, the parking fee is $10 per vehicle. There is an additional non-resident entrance fee, which is $5 per person. Children under three years old are free.  

Hawaiʻi residents with a valid driver’s license or State ID can continue to enter all state parks free of charge.  

Most visitors to Hawaiʻi know about Hawaiʻi’s endangered and protected animals, from Hawaiian monk seals to palila (finch-billed Hawaiian honeycreeper) to the colorful humuhumunukunukuapuaʻa (reef triggerfish).

But few know about Hawaiʻi’s unique native, endemic and indigenous plants. According to the Native Plants Hawaiʻi Project, about 90% of the Islands’ native plants are found nowhere else in the world and are some of the most endangered.

Hopefully that will change.

April is National Native Plant Month, an initiative co-sponsored by U.S. Senators Mazie Hirono (D-Hawaiʻi) and Mike Braun (R-Indiana) with the goal of raising awareness of the importance of native plants to environmental conservation and restoration.

“There are thousands of native plant species in the U.S. and Hawaiʻi is home to over 40% of our country’s threatened and endangered plant species,” said Hirono in a news release. “In Hawaiʻi, native plants are crucial to the islands’ history, culture and environment, which is why our communities prioritize the preservation of our unique biodiversity.”

There are community groups and nonprofits working to restore habitats and save native plant populations—and many need volunteers, even ones on vacation. You can plant a legacy koa tree on Hawaiʻi Island with Hawaiian Legacy Reforestation Initiative or restore native habitats on Maui with Kipuka Olowalu.

Here’s a quick look at some of Hawaiʻi’s special flora—and if you see one of these on a hike or walk, don’t touch, just admire.

ʻĀhinahina

ʻĀhinahina, or silversword, is a native plant found on Haleakalā on Maui.
Photo: Getty Images

You might have seen the delicate silversword, called ʻāhinahina, on your visit to Haleakalā on Maui. This stunning endemic plant, with swordlike silver leaves jutting from its base, has been declining for centuries, eaten by feral goats and taken by visitors as souvenirs. Today, the Maui silversword (Argyroxiphium sandwicense subsp. macrocephalum) is a federally threatened species. It grows here and nowhere else in the world.

ʻŌhia Lehua

ʻŌhiʻa lehua blossoms in Kāneʻohe on Oʻahu.
Photo: Courtesy of the Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority/Heather Goodman

The ʻōhiʻa lehua (Metrosideros polymorpha) is endemic to six of the largest Hawaiian Islands and the most common native tree, comprising 80% of Hawaiʻi’s native forests. Its flowers are a mass of stamens, ranging in colors from red to yellow to salmon. In addition to providing an important habitat for native forest birds, the ʻōhiʻa lehua is culturally significant to Native Hawaiians. The wood was traditionally used for kapa beaters, poi boards and weapons, and its leaves were used as a medicinal tea. The most current threat to this native tree is a fungal disease known as Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death, which attacks and quickly kills the tree.

Naupaka

The native shrub naupaka on Hawaiʻi Island.
Photo: Getty Images

One of the most common native plants you’ll see in Hawaiʻi is the naupaka (Scaevola taccada var. taccada)—specifically naupaka kahakai—an indigenous coastal shrub with thick, large green leaves and its signature “half-flowers.” You’ll find these shrubs everywhere—along roads and highways, in beach parks, in yards as landscaping. (Another variation of this shrub, naukapa kuahiwi, grows in the mountains.) Early Native Hawaiians used the flowers in lei—and still do—and for medicinal purposes. Today, naupaka is used to dye fabric,  and local divers and swimmers use the leaves to rub inside their diving mask or goggles to prevent fogging.

Koa

Visitors plant koa trees in Hawaiʻi Island as part of a reforestation project.
Photo: Courtesy of the Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority/Heather Goodman

The koa (Acacia koa) is the largest native tree species in the Hawaiian Islands, reaching heights of 115 feet. These majestic trees are endemic to Hawaiʻi and is one of the most valuable hardwoods in the world. Early Hawaiians used it to build canoes, surfboards, spear handles and ʻukulele. Most is used today to make furniture, veneer and crafts. These trees also provide important habitats for native birds, once including the aptly-named koa finch, which is now extinct.

Māmaki

Māmaki is endemic to the Hawaiian Islands and often used in tea.
Photo: Getty Images

Stop by a local coffee or tea shop, and you might see māmaki on the menu. Māmaki (Pipturus albidus) is a shrub (or small tree) endemic to the Islands. It’s technically part of the nettle family—so not really a tea, per se—but the leaves of this plant can be used to brew an all-natural herbal beverage that has no caffeine and is often compared to green tea for its health benefits.

Maile

Maile lei.
Photo: Courtesy of Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson

The fragrant leaves of the maile (Alyxia stellata) make gorgeous lei, often seen worn by grooms at weddings. (Fun fact: Most of the maile lei that’s sold today come from the Cooke Islands and aren’t actually the native maile from Hawaiʻi.) This endemic shrub can be found on every island except for Kahoʻolawe and Niʻihau. All parts of the plant contain a chemical called coumarin, which is the substance that gives this plant its signature fragrance.

Uluhe

Uluhe fern.
Photo: Courtesy of the Hawaiʻi Department of Land and Natural Resources

Hike any ridge trail on Oʻahu—Puʻu Pia in Mānoa, ʻAiea Loop Trail in ʻAiea—and you’ll likely patches of this vibrant green fern. Also known as the Old World Forked Fern, uluhe (Dicranopteris linearis) is indigenous to Hawai’i and is found on all the main Hawaiian Islands. It grows in wet forests and mesic sites, and even colonizes bare sites such as lava flows and abandoned roads.

Hawai‘i’s vibrant and extensive reef systems, unique marine life and year-round warm waters make for exceptional snorkeling. Beneath the ocean’s surface, you’ll see colorful schools of fish and vibrant coral reefs and maybe even a honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) or two leisurely swimming by. For them, getting around in the ocean is effortless; for the rest of us, though—especially those unaccustomed to swimming in the unpredictable ocean—it can be a challenge.    

Hopping off a tour boat into the sea for the first time can be overwhelming—and for some, just entering from the beach is a big deal. And then there’s the actual snorkeling: You breathe through your snorkel tube and kick with your fins, hoping your mask doesn’t fog up while you adjust to the undulating movement of the ocean. It can be arduous at first, but the payoff is worth it. From Molokini off the coast of Maui to Mākua (aka Tunnels) on Kauaʻi and Shark’s Cove on Oʻahu, the Islands are home to incredible reef systems that make for astounding snorkel experiences. So, to make sure your first (or fifth) snorkel adventure goes swimmingly, HAWAIʻI Magazine asked the experts for advice. Capt. Ryan Gallagher and his crew at Holokai Catamaran, who operate a popular snorkel tour that takes passengers from Waikīkī to Turtle Canyon, offer tips for beginner snorkeling in Hawaiʻi.   

1. Know your swimming abilities 

Capt. Ryan Gallagher.
Photo: Grace Maeda

Capt. Ryan’s first tip for novice snorkelers: Know your swimming abilities. “If anything, underestimate them. The ocean in Hawaiʻi is rough,” he says. Many snorkel tours require you to know how to swim. Many also equip snorkelers with floatation vests that must be worn in the water at all times. Those who aren’t strong swimmers are advised to stay close to the boat or a crew member in the water who will be keeping tabs on you. For snorkelers starting from the beach without a tour group, set realistic expectations about your swimming abilities. Don’t venture far from shore if you’re not a confident swimmer. Ocean conditions can change rapidly, making it difficult to swim back to the beach, even for strong swimmers.  

2. Practice swimming in a pool 

A calm pool is drastically different from the ocean—but if you’re uncomfortable in the water, practicing there can be helpful. And if you’ve brought your own equipment, Capt. Ryan suggests testing it in a pool before heading into the ocean. Getting accustomed to wearing a mask, breathing through a snorkel and kicking with fins beforehand means more time to enjoy your snorkeling adventure once it starts.  

3. Before you jump in, do your research and talk to a lifeguard on the beach

Uluwehi Keaunui is a crew member aboard the Holokai Catamaran and also works at the City and County of Honolulu’s Ocean Safety and Lifeguard Services.
Photo: Grace Maeda

Most things are done well when you prepare—and snorkeling is no exception. Research the areas you’ll be snorkeling in and read up on ocean conditions, even if you’ll be with a tour group, but especially if you plan to snorkel on your own. Capt. Ryan says the time of year greatly impacts currents and swells.   

Uluwehi Keaunui, a crew member aboard the Holokai Catamaran who also works at the City and County of Honolulu’s Ocean Safety and Lifeguard Services, adds, “If there’s a lifeguard on duty at the beach, don’t be afraid to ask them about the conditions; they’re the ones who are on the beach day in and day out.” Lifeguards can inform you about any potential hazards like rip currents, dangerous reefs and shore breaks.   

4. Bring the proper equipment

Preparation plays a part here too: Being ready with the proper gear is critical to a successful and enjoyable snorkeling experience. Most snorkel tours will provide you with a mask, snorkel, fins and even reef-safe sunscreen; just be sure to bring a hat and some sun protection of your own, just in case. Capt. Ryan suggests always using fins, which give swimmers and snorkelers a huge boost in the water.  

5. Buddy up

Swimming in the ocean with a friend or a group is always a smart and safe option. More eyes can detect potential hazards and having friends nearby can provide help if needed. However, Keaunui notes, the buddy system only works if you have a buddy. So, if you’re snorkeling solo, which isn’t advised for novice snorkelers, make sure you tell someone on land. Together, set a time that you plan to check in by. If you haven’t checked in by then, that person can notify lifeguards or ocean safety crews.  

6. Pop up periodically 

Once you’ve mastered breathing through the snorkel tube, it’s easy to be transfixed by the underwater world beneath you. However, whether you’re with a tour boat or snorkeling off the beach, Keaunui recommends that snorkelers frequently pop their heads above the water to ensure they’re not floating away from the group or the beach. Taking note of landmarks can help ensure you don’t drift off course.  

7. Don’t touch anything and don’t harass the wildlife 

The Holokai Catamaran crew strongly advise against touching, or destroying Hawaiʻi’s marine habitats. Coral reefs are fragile ecosystems that provide homes and nourishment to many native species. Also, don’t pester honu, heʻe (octopus), monk seals, dolphins or any marine creatures. Violators can be subject to hefty fines. From the ocean to the mountains, respect Hawaiʻi’s wildlife and environment.   

On a cool Saturday morning, 45 volunteers wearing water shoes and hats start a 10-minute trek from Kuli‘ou‘ou Beach Park to Paikō Beach on O‘ahu, nets in hand. The group is on its way to the Paikō Restoration Area to pull out invasive algae with folks from Mālama Maunalua. The nonprofit stewardship organization is committed to restoring the once thriving marine ecosystem here. This huki (to pull) event occurs at least once a month during low tide.   

Paikō Beach is just one section of Maunalua Bay, an area in East Honolulu that covers 6.5 square miles of ocean and nearshore reef, stretching from Kawaihoa (Koko Head Point) to Kūpikipiki‘ō (Black Point). With rapid industrialization in Hawai‘i during the 1950s, the bay’s once crystal-clear blue waters had turned into a murky dark brown goop.  

In ancient Hawai‘i, Maunalua Bay was one of the largest fishponds in all of Polynesia and was also used for recreation. Alex Awo, director of Mālama Maunalua’s habitat restoration program, grew up hearing stories from kūpuna (older adults) of a time when people could fish and harvest limu (seaweed) from the bay and take home a week’s worth of food. Now, you’d be lucky to catch a few fish—and you definitely don’t want to eat the algae, Awo tells the group as he holds up a sediment-covered pile of brown seaweed.   

Mālama Maunalua brings together volunteers to huki, or pull out, invasive algae at Maunalua Bay on O‘ahu.
Photo: Sean Marrs

Today, three types of invasive algae are preventing the growth of native algae—gorilla ogo (seaweed), prickly seaweed and leather mudweed. Each distinct in color, shape and texture, these invasive species outcompete native seaweed for food, sunlight, water and space. In addition, the invasive species trap sediment and runoff from surrounding areas, polluting the water.   

Since its founding in 2006, Mālama Maunalua has pulled 3.7 million pounds of invasive algae and restored 2.8 acres of the bay, significantly improving water quality. After each huki session, the approximately 800 pounds of algae pulled is taken to Otsuji Farm in Honolulu where it is used as soil fertilizer for locally grown crops.   

But invasive algae grows back fast and committed volunteers are needed to continue the effort. Cue in regenerative tourism—a model that encourages visitors to engage with local causes. “Visitors who come and volunteer with agencies like Mālama Maunalua have a much better appreciation of the Islands,” Awo says. “It’s an opportunity to give back to communities, help our environment in a meaningful way, hopefully learn something new and have a lot of fun.”  

Regenerative tourism doesn’t just benefit Hawai‘i, though. “When you go back home, there’s still native species wherever you’re from that are trying to survive,” says Doug Harper, Mālama Maunalua’s executive director. “So you can take the lessons that you’ve learned here about malāma i ka ‘āina (to take care of the land) and do the same for the environment where you’re from.”  

Prickly seaweed is one of the invasive species that take nutrients away from native algae.
Photo: Sean Marrs

Even if visitors don’t participate in volunteer events while in Hawai‘i, Awo stresses that when traveling around the Islands, visitors and residents should leave every place in the same, if not better, condition than before. “That includes things like cleaning up your trash so it doesn’t end up in our waters, using reef-safe sunscreens that don’t kill off our corals and being mindful of areas with thriving coral reef populations,” Awo says. Stepping on coral or hitting the reef with a surfboard leaves a negative footprint, he adds.   

The challenges that Maunalua Bay faces reflect Hawai‘i’s fragility while highlighting the positive impact of communal work. Volunteering with Mālama Maunalua is not just an opportunity to give back, it ensures a sustainable future for the Islands.    

3 Tips to Mālama ‘Āina 

Mālama Maunalua is a non-profit organization committed to preserving O‘ahu’s marine ecosystem. Executive director Doug Harper shares his tips to mālama i ka ‘āina (take care of the land) wherever you go. 

1. Practice pono (goodness). Leave any area you go to in a better condition than when you found it.
2. 2. Storm runoff can be detrimental to marine life everywhere. Reduce runoff from your home by installing a rain barrel or turning downspouts onto the grass.
3. Take three for the sea. Pick up at least three pieces of rubbish around your neighborhood, in a park or on a hiking trail.

To learn more or find out how you can help, visit malamamaunalua.org. 

This story was originally published in our 2022 Fall issue. Buy a copy here.

As the sun sets over the Pacific, Maui’s sky turns into a fiery canvas. Off the beach, calm, glassy waters shimmer with vibrant shades of red and orange. From the mountains, lucky observers watch as the magic hour casts its spell over the Valley Isle, and from a delightful seaside restaurant, diners feast their eyes as lavender hues paint a sky now streaked with cotton candy-colored clouds. No matter where you are on Maui, it’s a remarkable sight. See it for yourself; here are a few of our favorite spots to watch from.   

Great Maui beaches to watch the sunset   

Every evening, a diver runs along the cliffs of Puʻu Kekaʻa, or Black Rock, lighting torches leading up to a thrilling dive from the cliff.
Photo: Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson

You can’t go wrong watching the sun sink below the horizon from any of Maui’s beautiful beaches. But for some of the most spectacular views, the west and south shores of the island are where it’s at. On the west side, Kāʻanapali Beach is one of the island’s jewels, with 3 miles of white sand and aquamarine water. As the sun sets, the colorful sky isn’t the only spectacle. Every evening, a diver runs along the cliffs of Puʻu Kekaʻa, or Black Rock, lighting torches leading up to a thrilling dive from the cliff. And not far from Kāʻanapali Beach is Kapalua Bay. At this cove, the views at sunset also include Molokaʻi—the Friendly Isle, about 12 miles away—as well as playful whales in the winter.  

In the final hour of daylight, the sun casts a mesmerizing glow over Mākena.
Photo: Getty Images

On Maui’s southern shore, Mākena, aka Big Beach, is a popular spot among residents and visitors, from sunrise to sunset. The beach is nestled between two lava outcroppings that shield beachgoers from any heavy winds. From the sand, you’ll spot the crescent-shaped Molokini crater just a couple of miles offshore, and the uninhabited island of Kahoʻolawe. In the final hour of daylight, the sun casts a mesmerizing glow over this side of the island. Keawakapu, also along Maui’s sunny south side, is a much-loved beach and it’s not uncommon to find people there from dawn until dusk, too. Keawakapu is a great spot to watch a breathtaking sunset without the long drive to Mākena.  

(Visitors to Mākena State Park pay for parking at the parking lot kiosks. For more information, visit dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/maui/makena-state-park.)  

Where to watch the sunset in Upcountry Maui  

Watching the sun set from the summit of Haleakalā is certainly a breathtaking experience and so are the moments after the sun disappears.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Watching the sun’s rays disappear over the Pacific from a beach is incredible, but so is watching it from 10,000 feet above sea level. From the highest point on the Valley Isle—which is the summit of Haleakalā, a dormant volcano—you can watch as wispy clouds erupt in orange and red. Glance down and you’ll see night falling peacefully on the island. Watching the sun set from the summit of Haleakalā is certainly a breathtaking experience and so are the moments after the sun disappears. At twilight, the sky turns indigo, and shimmering stars blanket the sky, and you’re sure to see at least a planet or two, too.   

Sun Yat-Sen Park offers views of Kīhei, Wailea and neighboring islands.
Photo: Grace Maeda

For those who aren’t up for the drive to the summit of Haleakalā, consider visiting Sun Yat-sen Park. Situated high on the slopes of Haleakalā, but well short of the summit, the park is a little-known locale. Drivers often make it to Grandma’s Coffee House and Kula Country Farms, then turn back around before reaching this green space. Or they zip by on the way to the island’s winery. With so few visitors, Sun Yat-sen Park is an idyllic place to set up a picnic or just take in the sweeping views of Kīhei, Wailea and neighboring islands in solitude.   

Maui restaurants with spectacular ocean views at sunset  

Pacific’o on the Beach offers guests a dining experience just steps from the sea.
Photo: Courtesy of Pacific’o on the Beach/Spencer Starnes

Sipping on a cocktail and sharing a meal with friends and loved ones is even better with a sunset and the Pacific Ocean as your backdrop. Fortunately, the Valley Isle is dotted with crowd-pleasing restaurants offering front-row seats to the spectacle. Huihui, the Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel’s signature restaurant, was designed so that everyone in every seat in the place has a view of the ocean. Located in Lahaina and loved for its romantic ambience, Pacific’o on the Beach offers guests a dining experience just steps from the sea. Diners can enjoy dishes made with local ingredients, sip on creative cocktails and watch as the sun sets over Lahaina. And just down the road you’ll find the ever popular Star Noodle. There, you can slurp noodles and shoot back sake on the seaside patio.   

In today’s world of technology with navigational aids in the palms of our hands, getting from here to there is pretty much a cinch. On land, smartphones provide turn-by-turn driving directions, and GPS devices can pinpoint your exact location on the globe, even in the middle of the sea.   

But at the turn of the 20th century, navigation at sea relied on beacons of light. According to Love Dean in The Lighthouses of Hawai‘i, there were once 176 lighthouses and other beacons across the islands. Some have historical significance. After a series of shipwrecks, the Makapu‘u Point Lighthouse on O‘ahu was built in 1909, relying on a hyperradiant lens, the largest lens of its type ever made. That same year, topping out at 132 feet, the tallest lighthouse tower in Hawai‘i was erected at Kalaupapa on the north shore of Moloka‘i, sending its flashing signal 21 miles out to sea. The northernmost lighthouse built in Hawai‘i, at Kīlauea Point on Kaua‘i, started signaling its double-flash every 10 seconds in 1913.   

By their very nature, lighthouses spark our imaginations, evoking images of angry seas and daring rescues.   

Interestingly enough, the lighthouse at Kīlauea Point played a starring role in one of the earliest flights over any ocean. 

In 1927, on the other side of the country and over a different ocean, Charles Lindbergh completed the first solo nonstop trans-Atlantic airplane flight. Meanwhile, the U.S. Army was pondering the fastest ship to connect the U.S. Mainland to Hawai‘i, to dispatch soldiers in case of war or to deliver serum in case of a plague. They chose an airship.  

The 52-foot Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse was built in 1913 as a beacon for traveling ships.
Photo: Getty Images

A few short weeks after Lindbergh’s flight, before dawn on June 28, 1927, at Oakland Airport in California, Army Lts. Lester Maitland and Albert Hegenberger climbed aboard a retrofitted Fokker C-2 TriMotor, christened Bird of Paradise by the press. Their destination: Wheeler Field on O‘ahu. The 2,418-mile journey was anticipated to take in the neighborhood of 24 hours.  

The Bird of Paradise carried a load of 1,120 gallons of gasoline, 5 gallons of water, and thermoses of soup and coffee, as well as an inflatable rubber life raft and provisions of tinned beef and hardtack in case of emergency. It was also outfitted with the latest navigational aids of the day—some of them experimental: a radio beacon, induction compass, bubble sextant and three dozen smoke bombs.   

But within the first two hours of flight, all the navigational aids failed in some way, including the smoke bombs due to heavy winds. So Maitland dropped the plane below the dense clouds, and Hegenberger navigated using an ordinary compass and measured wind speed by peering through a trap door in the floor of the plane and eyeballing wind spray coming off waves.  

If they were on course, they would expect to see steamships puffing their way along the same route. At 2:40 p.m., about 7 1/2 hours into the flight, they spotted the Sonoma through a thin veil of clouds. But, after that, there were no more steamship sightings.  

A koa‘e ‘ula (left) and ‘ua‘u kani fly by the lighthouse, which is now part of a larger complex known as Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge.
Photo: Getty Images

At 10 p.m., Hegenberger decided to try his hand at navigating by the stars, and Maitland nosed the airship up above the clouds. At 11,000 feet, the center engine cut out. Then the propeller stalled. Maitland guided the Bird of Paradise back down through the clouds while Hegenberger prepared the life raft. 

At about 3,000 feet above sea level, the engine roared back to life and Hegenberger climbed back into his navigator’s seat.  

The hours wore on.  

Later, Maitland would admit to an intense headache and sleep deprivation when, 22 hours and 50 minutes after taking off from Oakland, he saw a light on the horizon. It was yellow. Another steamship, he thought, and nudged Hegenberger, who timed the light. It produced a double flash every 10 seconds. It was Kīlauea Point Light Station.   

The pilot and navigator had overshot O‘ahu, but they’d found land. Once they did, they circled Kīlauea for half an hour until the sun rose and they could see O‘ahu. When their wheels finally touched down at Wheeler Field, they’d been airborne for 25 hours and 49 minutes.  

Then-U.S. Army Chief of Staff Gen. Charles Summerall declared, “The Hawaiian flight was the greatest military achievement for the defense of the United States since the construction of the Panama Canal.”  

The original 52-foot Kīlauea lighthouse, known now as the Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse, was deactivated in 1976 and is now part of a larger complex known as Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, home to numerous nesting seabirds and nēnē (Hawaiian goose). Visitors can walk around it and glimpse the migratory and resident seabirds that take refuge there.     

Birds of Kīlauea Point  

Nēnē are regularly spotted at Kīlauea Point.
Photo: Getty Images

Once, the entirety of the Hawaiian archipelago was a sanctuary for birds. Passerines. Raptors. Seabirds. Shorebirds. Water birds. All kinds of birds. Once humans arrived, bringing with them predators, all that changed. Some 71 known birds found only in Hawai‘i and nowhere else in the world have gone extinct. Of the 42 remaining endemic birds found in Hawai‘i, 31 are federally protected as threatened or endangered. Ten have not been seen in recent decades.   

Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge gives a glimpse into the past—and what Hawai‘i could look like again with a few protections in place, notably predator-proof fencing. 

Nēnē: The state bird of Hawai‘i is one of the greatest success stories of all time—going from 30-some remaining individuals in the 1950s to over 3,000 today. Nēnē can regularly be seen at Kīlauea Point.  

Mōlī: With 6 ½-foot wingspans, Laysan albatrosses soar through the air with barely a flap of their wings.    

‘Ua‘u kani: The wedge-tailed shearwater breeds on the coasts of all the main Hawaiian Islands, nesting in underground burrows that can span up to 7 feet in length.  

‘Ā: Thanks to their colorful feet, this seabird is commonly known as the red-footed booby. They roost in trees, build nests of twigs and  swim underwater in search of food.  

Koa‘e kea: White-tailed tropicbirds nest in the crevices and hollows of rocky cliffs. They sport two long white tail feathers.  

Koa‘e ‘ula: Red-tailed tropicbirds nest in coastal areas under woody vegetation or in rocky divots. They have red bills and two long red tail feathers. They are known as “plunge feeders,” diving into the sea in pursuit of squid, flying fish and mackerel.   

‘Iwa: With wings stretching in excess of 7 feet from tip to tip, these great frigate birds have the longest wingspan of any seabird regularly seen at Kīlauea Point.

$10 entry fee for people 16 years and older, kids and teens under 16 are free. Online reservations required for entry. 3500 Kīlauea Rd., Kīlauea, fws.gov/refuge/kilauea-point. 

This story was originally published in our 2022 Fall issue. Buy a copy here.