I was on Lānaʻi recently, chasing down a few stories when that old familiar feeling struck. I was hungry. Actually, I was starving. Travel can do that to you—you’re so busy running around, not missing your flight, getting your rental car and voila, you’re starving. However, I had no clue where to even look for food on Lānaʻi. After asking a handful of local residents—who always know best—I kept hearing the same answer to my question on where to eat. Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine.

From what I was able to gather from the town’s residents, Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine has been around for decades, however the low-key food establishment only offered catering services until just recently. After Ganotisi’s opened its doors to dine-in and takeout customers a few years back, it became an instant local fave on Lānaʻi.

Good food, good mood.
Photo: Kevin Allen

Going into Ganotisi’s with an open mind and empty stomach, I immediately felt at home at the establishment’s relaxing, minimalistic seating area. It reminded me of the old-school plate lunch plate spots I’d go to as a kid on the North Shore, where emphasis and effort was placed more on the food than on the decor. However, there are outdoor seats at Ganotisi’s patio area that were complimented by the natural foliage of the area.

And the food? Let me just put it this way. If Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine were on Oʻahu or Maui, where more people could experience the it, it would be commonly accepted as one of the best plate lunch spots in the state. With a menu dedicated to local-kine grinds, from kalbi short ribs to meat jun and butter garlic shrimp, fans of Hawaiʻi-style fare will have a hard time choosing which of these filling plates to go with. As an avid fan of Korean fried chicken, I went with what I know best and was not disappointed in the slightest.

The Korean fried chicken plate.
Photo: Kevin Allen

An explosion of flavor with every bite, I was pleasantly surprised with not only how juicy the chicken was, and how it was the perfect ratio of chicken skin to meat. A heaping of perfectly made white rice followed every bite and before long I was more than half way through my plate. Turning my attention to the mac salad, I’m shocked at how different it is compared to the stock-standard mac salad I’d get at home. A bit more textured, a touch courser and with peas interspersed, Ganotisi’s mac salad proved to me that different can be good.

It’s not everyday you find a plate lunch spot this good. And while you may not find yourself on Lānaʻi anytime soon, if you do happen to visit the little island, be absolutely sure to visit Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine while you’re there. You won’t be disappointed—and try the mac salad.

Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine, open 8 to 10 a.m. and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. seven days a week, 408 Eighth St., Lānaʻi City, (808) 565-7120.

Editor Kevin Allen recently returned from a day trip to the Lānaʻi Cat Sanctuary, a shelter for feral cats on the island. He got to hang out with the more than 600 cats on this property and talk with the new owners, both veterans from the Hawaiian Humane Society.

In the meantime, editor at large Catherine Toth Fox spent the weekend on Kauaʻi, this time hiking in Kōkeʻe State Park with her family. They stayed at the Waimea Plantation Cottages in one of the 59 historic plantation homes that have been refurbished and outfitted with everything you could ever need, from a full kitchen to an outdoor lānai with views of Driftwood Beach.

It’s work, so somebody’s got to do it!

We share our tips for traveling to Lānaʻi and hiking at the state park. Definitely bookmark this episode if you’re planning a trip to either of these islands.

Hope you enjoy!

Got questions or comments for us? You can email us at media@hawaiimagazine.com. Follow us on social media @hawaiimagazine, and be sure to subscribe to our channel on SoundCloud, iTunes or Spotify. Also, be sure to check out our Shopify for HAWAIʻI Magazine products. 

Just nine miles off the coast of Maui, Lānaʻi is a serene escape to an even more quiet and relaxed way of life. With about 3,100 residents, Lānaʻi is the smallest of the inhabited Hawaiian Islands and is owned by Larry Ellison, cofounder of the software company Oracle Corporation.    

From a charming town and untouched terrain to opulent resorts and world-class golf courses, visitors are sure to find both tranquility and adventure on the island. Mom-and-pop shops line the street in Lānaʻi City and the cat sanctuary is a short 10-minute drive away. And there’s no need to worry about traffic; there are no stop lights on the island.  

Inspired to visit the island? Here’s what you need to know.  

Take the Expeditions Ferry 

The most common way to travel to Lānaʻi is on the Expeditions Ferry, which departs from Lahaina Harbor on Maui and arrives in Manele Harbor. The 45-minute ride crosses the ʻAuʻau Channel with breathtaking views of Lahaina, Mauna Kahālāwai and Molokaʻi. During the winter months, passengers can also witness spectacular shows by humpback whales and their playful calves.  

The ferry offers four departure times throughout the day from Lahaina and Manele. The last ferry ride departs Manele at 5:30 p.m. Passengers are encouraged to book their tickets in advance, especially when traveling on weekends. Seniors and kamaʻāina (residents) can receive discounts. The ferry is docked in front of the Pioneer Inn and passengers should arrive at least 30-minutes before departure. For those that want to sit on the top of the double decker boat, arrive early because those are the most coveted seats and fill up fast.  

For those that would rather fly, airlines with flights to the island include Lānaʻi Air. The luxury plane offers flights between Lānaʻi City and Daniel K. Inouye International Airport on Oʻahu. Mokulele Airlines also offers flights to the island but by charter only.  

What to Expect on the Ferry Ride  

The island of Lānaʻi is visible from Maui’s west side. The Expeditions Ferry crosses the ʻAuʻau Channel, connecting Lānaʻi with Maui.
Photo: Grace Maeda

The ocean is smooth and glassy crossing the ʻAuʻau Channel early in the morning. The channel is one of the most sheltered passages in the state, lying between Lānaʻi and Maui, with protection by Molokaʻi in the north and Kahoʻolawe in the south. ʻAuʻau was named for its calm, bath-like conditions, translating to “to take a bath.” 

While the channel is indeed calm in the morning, wind and waves strengthen throughout the day. For those prone to motion sickness, be prepared because rides in the afternoon can be turbulent. Often the top of the boat is the best place to ease motion-sickness. The open-air and breeze certainly helps, however there is limited shade and a high chance of getting sprayed by ocean waves.  

Make Reservations with Shuttles  

Before embarking on the journey to Lānaʻi, make sure to reserve shuttle rides at least one day in advance. There are multiple cabs that will transport passengers from Manele Harbor into Lānaʻi City and the Lānaʻi Cat Sanctuary. Renting a car is also a terrific way to explore the island and rugged terrain. Four-wheel drive vehicles can be booked with Lānaʻi Car Rental in town.  

Walkable Attractions from Manele Harbor 

The dreamy Hulopoʻe Beach is a just a short 7-minute walk from Manele Harbor.
Photo: Grace Maeda

For those that did not plan and make shuttle reservations in advance, don’t fret. At the harbor, Manele General Store is a small convenience shop with snacks and refreshments. It even carries beer and wine. After securing beverages and food, take a 7-minute walk to Hulopoʻe Beach Park. The water is crystal-clear at this white-sand beach, making it ideal for snorkeling. It’s also a peaceful spot to spread a towel out and lie on the beach all day. Just remember to catch the last ferry to Maui! 

It’s the list you’ve all been waiting all year for. The votes are in, and the results are below. Hawaiʻi’s Top 6 islands, ranked from “best” to “still really amazing” by our readers. It’s not like you can go wrong traveling to any of these islands, but for curiosity’s sake, here are the results!

1. Kauaʻi

Photo: Getty Images

Back at the top of the list for its second year in a row, Kauaʻi continues to stun visitors with its dynamic coastlines, luscious forests and verdant valleys. The Garden Isle shines most in its outdoor pleasures—from riding horseback through a 300-acre ranch to farm tours through a family-run organic nursery in Kīlauea. Of course, who can forget about Hāʻena State Park. Although it has reopened with a new reservation system that limits the number of daily visitors the park receives, a hike along the Nāpali Coast is worth the price of admission.

Another reason why Kauaʻi reigns supreme is its overall sense of country charm. From the island’s North Shore towns like Hanalei to Poʻipū, located on the seemingly always sunny southern side of Kauaʻi, visitors will always feel that authentic local Hawaiʻi charm wherever they go. And from haku lei-making classes to newly painted murals in Downtown Līhuʻe, there’s always a sense of culture and Hawaiʻi pride from all of the island’s residents and businesses.

2. Maui

Photo: Getty Images

Once a perennial winner of this category, Maui has falled to the No. 2 position—although the island remains just as stunning. The natural wonders, like ʻĪao Needle and Haleakalā, are just as awe-inspiring. The farmers markets are just as charming and the whale-watching tours are just as majestic. Of course, the districts and towns of Maui are also hard to beat, and names like Lahaina, Wailuku and Pāʻia will undoubtedly hold a place in your memories after your visit. So don’t let that little “2.” fool you; for many, Maui is still No. 1 in their hearts.

3. Oʻahu

Photo: Getty Images

There’s never a dull moment on Oʻahu. Accommodating for every kind of traveler, adventure junkies will love Oʻahu’s panoramic hikes and botanical gardens. Foodies will want to visit with their appetite raring to go, as the island is home to hidden gems worth finding, brunch spots worth skipping breakfast for and new diners and restaurants that open on a near-weekly basis. Of course, who can forget the postcard-perfect beaches? Lanikai Beach, Kailua Beach, Sunset Beach, Waimānalo Beach, Sandy Beach. The list goes on and on—and on.

4. Hawaiʻi Island

Photo: Getty Images

Hawaiʻi Island, often referred to as the Big Island, has had an interesting year. There was a new eruption at Kīlauea, the island’s most active volcano, and it was a true spectacle. It is also the first lava flow Hawaiʻi Island has had since the destructive eruptions of 2018, and the soft orange glow emitted by the now-present lava lake is a welcome sight. While the eruption made headlines across the state, Hawaiʻi Island is really unique in that some of its best attractions, eateries and activities are very much under the radar. From a whole-animal butchery in Waimea to a tidepool-filled beach park with the only horseshoe court in Hawaiʻi, the Big Island will surprise the curious visitor at every corner.

5. Molokaʻi

The sea cliffs of Molokaʻi.
Photo: Getty Images

There’s getting away from it all, and then there’s going to Molokaʻi, where there are zero traffic lights and, surprisingly, a few great places to get breakfast, lunch and dinner. The island itself is great for hikers, and Hālawa Valley, on Molokaʻi’s east side, will drop jaws with its ruggedly handsome views. If beaches are more your calling, Pāpōhaku Beach is among Molokaʻi’s biggest, at 3 miles long and 100 yards wide.

6. Lānaʻi

Puʻu Pehe (or Sweetheart Rock) on Lānaʻi.
Photo: Getty Images

Lānaʻi gives visitors a level of solitude and Island-style living that’s a step above the other islands, sans Molokaʻi. If you’re looking to shift out of the fast lane and unwind, little Lānaʻi’s got your back. Although accommodation options are slim, the Four Seasons Resort Lānaʻi, recently named the No. 1 hotel in the nation by U.S. News, offers luxurious suites, while Hotel Lānaʻi in Lānaʻi City provides a more down to earth bed-and-breakfast appeal that matches the island’s general attitude. Grab a bite at the homey Blue Ginger Café and set out to explore Lānaʻi’s many seaside cliffs and cultural sites.

“I was 17 years old, four days after my graduation from high school and I was hanging out at Mānele Bay with friends just trying to figure out what we were going to do,” says Tabura, who’s since gone on to become a Food Network winner, cookbook author and internationally acclaimed celebrity chef. “And on that day I ended up saving a man’s life from drowning.” Not long after that fateful encounter, the man got into contact with Tabura by finding his mother’s phone number, which Tabura says “hasn’t changed in 40 years.” After talking to Tabura about what he wanted to do in life, the stranger ended up paying for Tabura’s education at the Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, formerly the Western Culinary Institute, in Portland, Oregon. “He had reached out to me in July, and by August I was out of the house with just a bag, a box, a radio and a one-way ticket to Portland,” says Tabura.

But the hits don’t stop there. Six days before his graduation from culinary school, Tabura’s house caught fire during a graduation party thrown for him by his friends. While rescuing 11 of his friends—according to the fire marshal on duty—Tabura suffered severe burns on his hands and face. Fortunately, with the help and guidance of a Hawaiian healer, Tabura went back to culinary school to receive his diploma.

Fast forward 20 years and Tabura is a chef who has held executive culinary positions at Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Westin Maui and Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. After winning the Food Network’s national “Great Food Truck Race” in 2013 with his food truck, Aloha Plate, Tabura decided to challenge himself once more by starting a new company, Mānele Spice Co. “We’ve launched at Foodland, I have another five spices coming out by the end of the year and I’ve got a bunch coming down the pipe,” he says.

The idea for Hawaiian-style spices grew from Tabura’s need for a larger variety of spices in Hawaiʻi. “When I went to culinary school, we didn’t have any spices in Hawaiʻi,” says Tabura. “We had chile pepper, we had ʻinamona, we had ogo, and those aren’t even considered spices.” To remedy this, Tabura mixed his culinary lifestyle with his history growing up in Hawaiʻi to create five unique spices and blends; Everyday Mānele Bay Blend, Backyard Imu Smoke Salt, Tūtū Mama’s Garlic Herb Blend, Upcountry Style Chile Pepper and Hawaiʻi’s Hoʻokupu Salt Blend. These spices, which are all sourced locally, can be used for barbecuing or all-purpose cooking.

Unfortunately, the effects of COVID-19 spare nobody, and Mānele Spice Co. is no exception. “The hardest part for us, right now, is how everything is still so unknown,” says Tabura, whose company relies heavily on wholesale clientele. “Mānele Spice Co. is brand-new and one of the biggest challenges for me is that I’m in the food business and, if you look around you, everyone is closed or just doing takeout.” The timing of COVID-19 also has significantly hurt Tabura’s business, which was looking to attack the market during the summer months, with their barbecue heavy holidays such as Memorial Day, Father’s Day and the Fourth of July. “But I’m happy I’m not a big company,” says Tabura, “because those big companies are losing way bigger margins than people like us. But we’re all sitting in the same pond, and until the consumer and buyer comes back out, we’re all going to struggle.”

Fortunately, Tabura doesn’t give up easily. Those looking to spice up their dishes or upcoming barbecues can still find his products at Foodland Farms locations, and Mānele Spice Co.’s online store is still up and running. “I want to share Mānele Bay, and Hawaiʻi’s flavors, one bite at a time,” says Tabura, “and the way I’m going to do it is through my food and through my spices.”

To buy Mānele Spice Co. spices, visit its website or find its products in one of the gift sets offered by House of Mana Up here. Ir you’re on Oʻahu, Maui or Hawaiʻi Island, any Foodland Farms location. You can also follow the company on Instagram @manelespice or chef Adam Tabura @chefatabura.

The Islands boast some of the most diverse stretches of oceanfront, from the jet-black sands of Punalu‘u on Hawai‘i Island to the otherworldly red landscape of Kaihalulu Beach in Hāna on Maui. And there’s so much to do on these beaches, from camping under a canopy of stars to surfing some of the world’s most famous waves.

We’re making 2020 the Year of the Beach, with our 10 must-dos that should be on your Hawai‘i beach bucket list. Life’s a beach—so jump right in.

Visit the Newest Beach in Hawai‘i, Hawai‘i Island

BEST TIME: Year-ROUND

The 2018 Kīlauea eruption destroyed two beloved Hawai‘i Island spots—Kapoho Bay and Ahalanui Beach Park—in addition to 700 homes. But the volcano’s destructive nature is balanced by its ability to create, in this case 1.3 square miles of new land at Pohoiki (aka Isaac Hale Beach Park). This area was spared by the lava—it stopped a mere 230 feet away—and a new black sand beach formed at this oceanfront park and boat harbor. Walk carefully—the black sand is really sharp fragments of volcanic basalt. Swimming here is not advised due to strong currents and a dangerous shorebreak.

Watch Monster Winter Surf at Waimea Bay, O‘ahu

BEST TIME: December through February

Steeped in history and prestige, Waimea Bay, a 10-minute drive from Hale‘iwa, is an aquatic coliseum where big-wave warriors wrestle with nature itself. Sometimes they do it competitively, such as at the prestigious Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, which is only held if waves are at least 30 feet high. But most of the time, they do it for the rush of dropping down a mountain of moving water four stories high. And like any good arena, there are plenty of places for spectators to watch. The bluffs along Kamehameha Highway provide the best views, but you’ll have to get there early as those in the know will often camp out there the night before a super-size swell. If you don’t mind a crowd, head down to the beach and try to claim your spot in the sand.

Camp Next to Black Sand Wai‘ānapanapa Beach, Maui

BEST TIME: May through August

Wai‘ānapanapa Beach doesn’t have to be just a drive-by attraction on your way to Hāna. In fact, you can spend the night—in a tent, under the stars, at the pubic campground at Wai‘ānapanapa State Park. Just imagine waking up to the sound of the ocean and peeking out of your tent to see the sun’s first light illuminating the obsidian sands of Wai‘ānapanapa Beach, which is just below the designated campgrounds. All you need is a permit ($12 per night for residents, $18 for nonresidents).

Hike to Papakōlea Beach, the Only Green Sand Beach in the U.S., Hawai‘i Island

BEST TIME: Year-round

Papakōlea Beach, one of only four green sand beaches in the world and the only one in the U.S., is a two-hour drive south from Kailua-Kona. And that’s just to the parking area. It’s another 2.5-mile trek to the actual beach, which sits at the mouth of a bay on a tuff ring that formed about 50,000 years ago. (The green sand is actually olivine.) Fair warning: There are unofficial shuttles to the beach—between $10 and $20 per person—and you may be pressured to take one. You don’t have to. It’s free to walk to the beach; just bring sturdy shoes and water.

Surf in Waikīkī, O‘ahu

BEST TIME: Year-round

Whether you’re a first-timer or a lineup veteran, catching a wave in Waikīkī—where Native Hawaiians, including the legendary Duke Kahanamoku, have surfed for generations—should be on your bucket list. The waves here are friendly and plentiful, even during the lull of winter. (South swells hit Waikīkī in the summer months.) You can rent a board or get a lesson from a concession stand on the beach. Imagine riding a wave all the way to shore with Lē‘ahi (aka Diamond Head) as your background. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Snorkel at Mākua Beach, Kaua‘i

BEST TIME: JUNE THROUGH AUGUST

One of the best snorkeling spots in Hawai‘i, Kaua‘i’s Mākua Beach, often referred to as Tunnels Beach due to the bay’s numerous underwater lava tubes, boasts crystal-clear waters full of marine life. This snorkeling sanctuary is roughly 9 miles west of Princeville on the island’s North Shore. You’ll see all sorts of Island sea life, from humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, our state fish, to honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles). What’s impressive are the towering coral formations found at the beach’s outer reefs. Like many North Shore beaches, enter Mākua’s waters only during the summer; in winter, the place is known for large waves and strong rip currents.

Four-wheel Drive to Polihua Beach, Lāna‘i

BEST TIME: YEAR-ROUND

An hour away from Lāna‘i City, on the northern tip of the island, 2-mile-long Polihua Beach is one of the more expansive stretches of sand on Lāna‘i. And since you need a four-wheel drive to get there, you may just have this beach all to yourself. You can spend the day combing the beach for shells or gazing across the sea at Moloka‘i, just 11 miles off the coast. And while the ocean may look all too friendly, swimming at this beach is highly discouraged as the channel between Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i is known for strong rip currents. So just relax and enjoy the view.

Escape to Pāpōhaku Beach, Moloka‘i

BEST TIME: April to September

Pāpōhaku Beach on the western end of Moloka‘i is every beach lover’s dream: It’s an uninterrupted 3 miles long and 100 yards wide and is considered one of the longest—and emptiest—white-sand beaches in all of the Hawaiian Islands. Another perk: There are clean restrooms, showers and picnic areas. While it can be treacherous for swimming—especially in the winter months, from October to March—the beach is perfect for long walks or lounging with a good book. When you leave, the only footprints in the sand will likely be yours.

Kayak to Remote Miloli‘i Beach, Kaua‘i

BEST TIME: JUNE THROUGH AUGUST

It takes all day to kayak to Miloli‘i Beach, hidden far along the Nāpali Coast. Once there, though, you’ll be about as close as you’ll ever be to having your own private stretch of paradise. It’s highly recommended that you only attempt this journey during Kaua‘i’s summer months, when the waves hitting the coast are at their smallest. Once you’ve arrived, you’ll find a campground (camping permits must be reserved in advance) equipped with fresh water, unheated showers, restrooms and picnic tables. You may notice a few aquatic visitors as well, since the beach is a popular place for monk seals and honu to relax and rest.

Helicopter to Nanina Beach, Ni‘ihau

BEST TIME: YEAR-ROUND

There’s really only one way you can lounge on a beach on Ni‘ihau, a 70-square-mile island owned by the Robinson family: booking a tour with the family’s Ni‘ihau Helicopters ($465 per person). You fly to the Forbidden Island on an Agusta 109A twin-engine helicopter from Port Allen Airport on Kaua‘i. The flight includes an aerial tour of the island, which is home to less than 200 Native Hawaiians. You spend a couple of hours at pristine Nanina Beach, a gloriously empty stretch of white sand often occupied by sunning Hawaiian monk seals. You can swim, snorkel, look for rare Ni‘ihau shells or just relax. Lunch is included.

And, according to a ranking done by U.S. News, it’s actually the best in the entire nation.

For the past 10 years, U.S. News has done “Best Hotels Ranking,” covering the entire nation and unlike our Readers’ Choice Awards, which tallies votes using reader input, U.S. News applies scores to thousands of hotels an extensive methodology that combines hospitality awards with hotel star ratings and guest reviews. And the formula calculated the Four Seasons Resort Lānaʻi at the No. 1 spot.

Of course, it doesn’t take a formula or supercomputer to know that the Four Seasons Resort Lānaʻi is one of the best around. The ultra-luxe resort seamlessly blends Hawaiian culture with modern amenities, offering everything from kupuna (elder, teacher) guided classes on hula to catamaran cruises of Lānaʻi’s remote coastline. The resort’s Jack Nicklaus-designed Manele Golf Course is so gorgeous, Bill Gates decided to get married there.

While no other Hawaiʻi hotels or resorts got on the U.S. News’ national rankings, Montage at Kapalua Bay got close at No. 7, with fellow Four Seasons’ properties like Four Seasons Resort Hualālai and Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea both making it under the Top 20 at 16 and 17 respectively.

To see the entire list, click here. To make a reservation at the number one hotel in the nation, check Four Seasons Resort Lāna’i’s website or call 1-800-819-5053. 

After night has taken over, I find myself unable to rise from my snug rocking chair. A powerful serenity has taken over my body, thanks to the absolute quietude I’m experiencing, something not found along the busy streets of Honolulu, from where I hail.

Thinking back on my short time on Lanai, I felt this peace of mind from the moment I got off the plane at Lanai Airport.

“So, this is Lanai City,” says Mike Hanog, a part-time driver of Dela Cruz Taxi Service, one of the island’s only taxi companies. He is often the first face visitors see when traveling to Lanai. Hanog, who was born and raised here, takes my girlfriend and I around the entirety of Lanai City and points out the movie theater, grocery store and lunch spots—in about three minutes. To call it a city might be a bit of an overstatement. It’s more like a town—a small one at that—with a ton of personality and charm. Born and raised in Haleiwa on Oahu, where dirt roads and pickup trucks full of surfboards are the norms, I immediately feel at home on these country streets. 

As he drops off my girlfriend, Kaila, and me at Hotel Lanai, Hanog confirms my worst fear: “Sorry, cash only.” As I fruitlessly dig around my luggage, hoping a 10-dollar bill will magically appear, Hanog clasps me on the back. “Hey man, don’t worry about it, just pay me when I pick you up.” A sense of relief washes over me. This was the first of many times I experienced the radiant friendliness of Lanai locals during my trip. Grabbing our bags, Kaila and I head up the newly renovated steps of Hotel Lanai.

For the first time in its over-a-century-long existence, Hotel Lanai, one of the island’s two hotels (and the only one geared toward travelers on a budget), has had a face-lift. This was big news for little Lanai. The boutique hotel closed in May 2018 for seven months of renovations and resumed business in December 2018 with more than just a fresh coat of paint. Many were worried about the hotel losing its signature rustic sensibilities; however, as I sit in the reception area with a cup of the hotel’s Earl Grey tea, snacking on a plate of complimentary oat biscuits and looking out of the room’s large windows at the charming streets of Lanai City, I know the owners kept what made the inn so special to begin with.

The plantation-style rooms, with their hardwood flooring, natural wicker furniture and open-air lanai, evoke a sense of homey charm. That part hasn’t changed. But the renovations have added some much-needed updates: Modern amenities, such as large flat-screen TVs, high-tech Toto toilets and touch-screen temperature and shade controls, provide the sort of luxury vacation experience that would be hard to get at a resort in Waikiki. The resort’s signature restaurant, Lanai City Bar & Grille, has also been given a complete makeover, and now features hardwood interior décor and an open-air, nonchalant atmosphere.

Although the hotel room, and its king-size bed, are alluring, Kaila and I decide to walk around the town, the edge of which is just a few hundred feet away from the hotel. Exiting through our veranda, which connects to the street, we start our brief expedition at the Lanai Culture & Heritage Center (730 Lanai Ave., lanaichc.org), to learn the history of Lanai, from its days before Western influences to its time as the world’s largest pineapple plantation. Our next stop is Blue Ginger Café (409 7^th St., bluegingercafelanai.com), where I feast on one of the best loco mocos I’ve ever had. And, after talking story with the shop clerk of the Lanai Art Center (339 7^th Ave., lanaiart.com) for nearly an hour, we decide to head back to the hotel, waving and smiling to the island residents who greet us along the way. And as much as I want to sit and talk with every friendly person, I have a dinner reservation to get to at the new and improved Lanai City Bar & Grille (828 Lanai Ave., lanaicitybarandgrille.com).

I’ve never met anyone like Joel Harrington. As head chef of Hotel Lanai’s restaurant, Harrington is charismatic, full of wild stories and errs on the side of eccentric. Decked in gold accessories, from golden spoons in his pocket to gold-painted nails, Harrington’s motto is “all gold, all the time.” To prove it, he’s even got AGATT (all gold, all the time) tattooed on the back of his hand. After being seated, Harrington tells me about how he’s absorbing and learning Lanai’s authentic Hawaii flavors by asking his local cooks to make breakfast, favoring Filipino dishes such as pancit noodles and chicken adobo.

Whatever Harrington’s doing to acclimate himself, he’s succeeding. The food at Lanai City Bar & Grille perfectly mixes the flavors of the Islands with Asian and American influences. I’m talking Tex-Mex-inspired short rib croquettes that melt in your mouth and a venison loin dish that uses deer from Lanai. Kaila’s entreé, a thick slice of mahimahi mixed with crunchy tempura sitting on a bed of kimchi rice, has me drooling, and I use the excuse of “research” to take a few big bites.

Sitting on the curb the next morning, waiting for Hanog to arrive in his big white van, I’m sad that I have to leave so soon. Lanai, and its compact city, has been a truly unique Hawaii experience. I can’t think of another place in the Islands where the streets are so quiet, the people are so friendly and your taxi driver will accept a day-late payment with a laugh and a smile.

Hotel Lanai
For Hotel Lanai reservations, visit hotellanai.com or call (808) 565-7211.

Lanai Heritage Center

There’s no better place to start your tour of Lanai City than at its heritage center, which is conveniently located next to Hotel Lanai. Here you can learn all about the history of Lanai, from its days before Western influences to its time as to its time as a plantation island used to grow pineapple. There are quite a few artifacts and relics set out for display in this cozy little museum, and friendly staff are always looking to talk about the island’s past and present. 730 Lanai Ave. # 126, Lanai City, (808) 565-7177, lanaichc.org.

Lanai City Bar & Grille

Located in Hotel Lanai, the Lanai City Bar & Grille serves as an upscale dining option for those looking for really, really, no really, good food. Joel Harrington, executive chef of Lanai City Bar & Grille, has put together a delectable menu, mixing the flavors of the Islands with Asian and American influences. We’re talking Tex-Mex inspired short rib croquettes so decadent they’ll melt in your mouth, and a venison loin dish that uses produce straight from Lanai. The restaurant is also a perfect pau hana setting, with an energetic bar area and live entertainment. 828 Lanai Ave., Lanai City, (808) 565-7212, lanaicitybarandgrille.com.

Coffee Works

It’s hard to miss Coffee Works—just look for the giant black coffee cup sign. Originally opening its doors in Honolulu way back in 1975, Coffee Works moved to Lanai City in 2000 and still serves a wonderful cup of coffee using local Hawaiian beans. The coffee house is also known for its specialty drinks, such as its blended Kona Mocha and spiced Chai latte. Although its interior doesn’t have much room to spare, Coffee Works features a quaint outdoor seating area where you can find the right spot to sip the day away. 604 Ilima St., Lanai City, (808) 565-6962, coffeeworkshawaii.com.

Lanai Art Center

The function of the Lanai Art Center is twofold. At first, you’ll likely just see it as a gallery and gift shop selling a wide variety of products that the island’s talented artists have produced, such as dolls, sculptures made from locally sourced red clay and paintings of the island. However, look a little harder and you’ll find that the art center is also a place for residents and visitors to learn how to improve their artistic craft. In the corner of the building lies a modest lending library and the center organizes workshops and classes on a regular basis. 339 7th St., Lanai City, (808) 565-7503, lanaiart.org. 

Blue Ginger Cafe

If you’re looking for a good, local, filling meal, look no further than Blue Ginger Cafe. At this modest bakery and lunch spot, you can find one of the best loco mocos in Hawaii, as well as omelets stacked with Portuguese sausage; fresh mahimahi burgers put together in homemade buns; and traditionally prepared chicken katsu, deep fried and breaded with panko, just how it should be. If you still have room for a sweet treat after your meal, the bakery has a wide selection to choose from; the blueberry turnover is a standout. 409 7th St, Lanai City, (808) 565-6363, bluegingercafelanai.com.

Hale Keaka

If you thought there’d be nothing to do in Lanai City at night, then you’d be wrong! Hale Keaka, Lanai’s only movie theater, screens two recently released movies every night, each with a single showtime, Monday through Thursday, and holds two showings for each movie Friday through Sunday. The actual theater itself is no slouch either, with state-of-the-art screens, air-conditioned rooms and comfortable leather seating. 465 7th St, Lanai City, (808) 565-7511, lanai96763.com/showtimes.